Chisel Grip Vs Half Crimp, If that's true, then yes, I'd prefer to train the correct half crimp grip. Here's the mechanical reality behind each grip position, and which one you should be training on. May 27, 2026 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. For those wondering, the chisel grip is a variation of the half crimp, where the index finger is straight and used more passively. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. For the most part just do what feels comfortable at this stage. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. He claims that you should rather train the half crimp, as the half crimp will make your chisel grip stronger as well, but the chisel grip will not make your half crimp grip stronger. . Mar 2, 2026 · This guide breaks down open-hand, half-crimp, and full-crimp techniques, showing you exactly when and how to use each grip type while preventing the A2 pulley strains that sideline ambitious climbers for months. Here, we explain the basics of crimp grips and how you can crimp like a pro climber! Grip Position Confusion I've been hangboarding for years now and mostly train with half-crimp and three-finger open. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. It’s like a mix between open hand and half crimp. Is the third one also a half crimp or not since the second joint is higher than the ends of the fingers. Full is like deep crimp and wrapped thumb, usually. But the third image is what I’m confused on. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. Chisel grip strains your A2 significantly less than half crimp, and using the muscles you developed from 3 years of climbing on your less-trained A2's will leave you at a higher risk of injury. Crimping ain’t easy. The chisel is effectively, a half-crimp where the index is kept straight. Finger Anatomy also plays into it, for example some people have really short pinkies and tend to either 3fd a lot of holds, or use more of a "chisel" grip (middle and ring finger crimping, index and pinky open) when others might half crimp. Four finger half crimp 2. The ‘chisel’ and open-crimp grips represent the middle ground between a half-crimp and an open/drag grip. This is a popular grip for campusing, finger-tip pull-ups, endurance training and warming up, simply because for most climbers, it feels so robust. Another possible grip that can be used for Arm-Lifting is the chisel. Finger length and the nuances of the hold may also affect things degree and it’s good to experiment to see which grip works best for you on certain holds. A rule of thumb is to do two-thirds of sets half-crimped and a third of sets dragging, although this should change subject to goals and weaknesses. Half crimp is all fingers crimped. Three finger drag 3. The crimp grip is one of the most common techniques in rock climbing. I prefer chisel or full crimp depending on the hold Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. This has worked for me. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. Mar 27, 2019 · The drag/open grip is useful but less effective as an 'all-round' training grip than the half-crimp. Specificity 2. Going to the gym by myself and being surrounded by incredible climbers left and right. Learn more about half crimp training here. Mostly depends on your finger anatomy wether or not chisel makes sense. Chisel is where you crimp your longer fingers but leave your shorter fingers open handed. And I understand the last image is a full crimp since the Feb 2, 2025 · Using the right climbing grips reduces injuries and makes the experience more enjoyable. However, views are divided when it comes use of the chisel for I understand that the first image is an open grip and according to some people the second one is a half crimp since the first two joints are in line and the hand is bent at 90 degrees. I’ve heard it’s weaker than other grips but it doesn’t matter if it feels good. The grip you choose doesn't just feel different — it changes the force line, pulley stress, and tendon load completely. I had to take a deep breath and This is called a chisel grip. May 10, 2022 · Climbers will debate the respective advantages of the chisel and the true half-crimp forever, but the reality is that you’ll prefer the one that you practice most. Just always important to train varying grips too. Depending on the respective length of individual fingers, the climbers may prefer one or the other. I am of the opinion that you should train in a grip position that is specific to how you grip holds on the wall, or at least your hangboard training should be specific to your goals.
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